Sunscreen Standoff: Why Asian Formulas Are Better (and the FDA Isn't Helping)

Beauty of Joseon highlights a frustrating reality: the FDA's outdated approval process limits sunscreen innovation in the U.S. Since 1999, no new UV filters have gained approval, while countries like Korea and Japan…

3 min readBeauty
Sunscreen Standoff: Why Asian Formulas Are Better (and the FDA Isn't Helping)
Beauty of Joseon literally makes a worse sunscreen formula for the US market because the FDA won't approve the good filters

In a world where sunscreen is an everyday necessity, the recent revelations surrounding Beauty of Joseon’s formulation for the U.S. market raise eyebrows and questions about regulatory practices. The fact that the FDA hasn’t approved a new UV filter since 1999 is not just a fun fact; it’s a glaring oversight that has real consequences for consumers. As the article highlights, while countries like Korea, Japan, and Australia have embraced modern innovations in sun protection, U.S. consumers are left to contend with outdated formulas that contain filters like avobenzone and homosalate, which simply do not measure up to their more advanced counterparts. For those who might wonder, “Should I use setting spray if I only wear mascara, lip gloss, and brow gel?” or “What sunscreen works best with my favorite beauty products?” the answer may hinge on the choices we make about protection against harmful UV rays.

The disheartening reality is that Beauty of Joseon, a brand beloved for its high-quality formulations, is forced to create a subpar version of its sunscreen for American consumers. This isn’t just disappointing; it’s a disservice. The Korean version boasts four modern filters that offer effective, photostable, broad-spectrum protection, while the U.S. alternative is stripped of these advancements due to regulatory constraints. This is a classic case of how a lack of forward-thinking in policy can hinder access to better, safer products. Consumers today are savvy; they want to know what’s in their products and how those ingredients stack up against the best in the market.

Furthermore, the pricing disparity is shocking. Why should a luxury brand like La Mer charge $130 for a formula that relies on the same outdated technology as a $17 product like Sun Bum? This raises deeper questions about value, marketing, and consumer rights. Are we really getting what we pay for when the underlying technology is the same? It’s time for consumers to demand more transparency and innovation in products that directly impact their health and well-being. As we ponder, “Sunscreen to pair with Chanel water fresh tint,” we must also consider the implications of using a subpar product that might not provide adequate protection.

The rumor of Olive Young launching a separate U.S. platform further complicates matters. If it means losing access to Korean formulations, it could lead to a significant gap in product quality for American consumers. As we navigate the future of sunscreen and beauty products, it’s crucial to advocate for change. Consumers should continue to push for regulations that keep pace with advancements in ingredient safety and efficacy.

Looking ahead, how much longer will we tolerate outdated sunscreen formulas simply because of regulatory inertia? As consumers grow more aware and vocal about their preferences, the hope is that the beauty industry will respond with innovation and transparency. The demand for better products is rising, and it’s time for the FDA and other regulatory bodies to catch up. The question now is not just about which sunscreen to choose, but how we can collectively influence the beauty landscape to prioritize health, efficacy, and consumer empowerment.

From Beauty

The FDA hasn't approved a new UV filter since 1999.

1999!! Korea, Japan, the EU, Australia have all approved 8+ newer ones since then.

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